“Summertime is time for corn,” my grandfather used to say. Never mind swimming, no school, summer camp, vacation, or for that matter, the many other vegetables like pole beans, squash and tomatoes that are abundant between Memorial Day and Labor Day in this part of the South. As a little girl, I spent hours following him around our family’s 5-acre farm in Clarkston. He taught me a few things about corn.
The most important lesson I learned was that, when it comes to corn, everything is about sugar content. The sweeter the corn, the better the flavor and texture. The way corn has been developed, planted, grown and harvested over the last 50 years or so has as much to do with its sugar content and preventing — or delaying — the sugar from turning to starch as it does preventing disease and improving crop yields. When corn’s sugar converts to starch, it ages the kernel, which negatively affects flavor and texture, making corn kernels dense and mushy.
Lots of varieties lend themselves to growth in the South’s humidity and heat, but the most common, sweet corn, falls into categories that are typed by sugar content: Standard, Sugary Enhancer and Supersweet. (See sidebar on common varieties.)
Garden expert and Atlanta Journal-Constitution contributor Walter Reeves explains on his blog, the Georgia Gardener, that the “sugary gene” in new hybrid Standard corn makes the varieties sweet and creamy, but they quickly lose their sweetness after harvest. According to Reeves, the Sugary Enhancer varieties have superior texture and flavor, with a higher sugar content that allows them to stay sweeter for longer. Supersweet hybrids are the highest in sugar content, so they hold sugar the longest, and also have a tougher skin — these are the kernels that lend a delicate crunch in your mouth, great for flavor but even better if you’re looking for crunchy texture on the cob or in salads and sautés.
When choosing corn at the grocery store, stay away from corn that’s been pre-shucked; it might save you a few minutes, but the flavor and texture loss isn’t worth it. If you’re tempted to shuck the corn at the market, don’t.
The adage about racing from the cornfield to the pot of boiling water isn’t too far off. For the best flavor and texture, shuck the corn just before you plan to cook it, and keep it at room temperature to prevent those sugars from converting to starch. It’s best to cook corn as soon as possible after purchase. If you can buy from a local farmers market you’re likely to get the freshest corn — and you’ll be supporting a local farmer.
When buying corn, look for husks that are green and tight around the cob — loose husks mean the corn isn’t fresh. To check the cob, peel back just a bit of the husk to make sure the kernels are plump and the silk strands are pale and slightly golden in color, and still moist. Avoid corn with silk that is brown, browning or drying. As for size, most corn farmers agree that medium is best; small husks could mean the corn is not fully developed, while the maturity of large husks could cause the kernels to be too tough.
Store the corn with the husks intact at room temperature if you plan to use it the same day. If not, wrap it in a vegetable cloth (a brown paper bag works too) and keep it for up to three days in the vegetable crisper of your fridge.
For boiling or grilling the corn, husk the cobs and remove all the silks. (I use my hands, not a brush, under cold running water.) Boiling times are much debated among corn aficionados, but think on how you like your corn: a three-minute boil is perfect if you are looking for a cooked, fresh, but slightly crunchy texture. When boiled for more than eight minutes, the corn will turn from creamy to mushy. The cobs can be grilled directly on the grill for two minutes on each side, or grilled inside the husk by soaking them in water for 15 minutes (to prevent the husk from burning on the grill) and then placing them on the uncovered grill for about five minutes per cob. For flavored grilled corn, you can husk the cobs without removing them entirely, remove the silks, season and butter the corn, then replace the husks and tie them with kitchen twine before grilling.
It could be argued that the idiom about apples, apple pie and Americana is off the mark. If there is one fruit or vegetable that truly signifies the unabashed character of the United States, it’s corn. Cultivated for centuries by Native Americans before anyone landed on Plymouth Rock, cooks from James Beard to cookbook writer Ronni Lundy believe this simple grass may be the West’s most significant contribution to the food world. And while it is prevalent in many forms throughout the regions of the United States, few folks love it more than Southerners.
Look for these corn varieties at farm stands and farmers markets
Standard: Pearl White, Silver Queen, Platinum Lady, Jubilee, Sundance. These varieties are sweet and creamy, but they quickly lose their sweetness after harvest.
Sugary Enhancer: Bicolor Ambrosia, Peaches and Cream, Tuxedo. Noted for their superior texture and flavor, with a higher sugar content that allows them to stay sweeter for longer.
Supersweet: Honey and Pearl, Indian Summer, Jubilee, Honey Select. The highest in sugar content; ideal if you’re looking for crunchy texture on the cob or in salads and sautés.
Recipes
We Southerners love corn on the cob, fried into fritters, shucked into a succotash, or ground into a meal for grits and cornbread. It’s a versatile ingredient that lends sweet flavor and crunchy texture to side dishes, salads, sautés and vegetable fritters. Try these recipes for easy additions to summer meals.
Whenever possible, use fresh corn cut from the cob for these recipes. Each cob will yield about 1/2 cup of kernels. Be sure to scale the cob with your knife for any of the corn “milk” that remains after slicing off the kernels and add it to your dish — it’s delicious!
Credit: Meridith Ford for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Credit: Meridith Ford for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Corn Chaat
Chaat is the term for South Asian and Indian street food snacks. Enjoy this recipe as a small meal, or as a side dish with fish or chicken. Most corn chaat recipes call for the corn to be boiled or steamed, but sautéing keeps the corn’s delightful crunch and adds the flavor of everything in the skillet. You can top this with a bit of mint or tamarind chutney or plain yogurt if desired. Chaat masala and chutney can be found at Your DeKalb Farmers Market, Whole Foods or South Asian grocery stores.
- 2 ears corn, shucked and silked
- 2 teaspoons sesame oil
- 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
- 1/4 cup finely chopped onions
- 1/3 cup finely chopped tomatoes
- 1/2 to 1 teaspoon finely chopped green chiles
- 1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro, plus more for serving
- 1/4 teaspoon red chile powder or cayenne powder
- 1 teaspoon chaat masala powder, or to taste
- 1 to 2 teaspoons lemon juice, or to taste
- Salt, to taste
- Mint or tamarind chutney, or plain yogurt for serving (optional)
- Cut the kernels from the corn cobs, place in a small bowl and set aside.
- In a large frying pan, heat the sesame oil on medium-high heat. Add the cumin seeds and chopped onions and heat until the onions are translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the reserved corn and heat for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool in the pan.
- Once cool to the touch, transfer the corn mixture to a medium bowl. Toss in the tomatoes, green chiles, chopped cilantro, cayenne, chaat masala and lemon juice. Stir until well combined. Taste and add salt if desired.
- Keeps covered and refrigerated for up to 1 week. Serve garnished with additional cilantro and chutney or yogurt, if desired.
Serves 2.
Per serving: 148 calories (percent of calories from fat, 33), 4 grams protein, 24 grams carbohydrates, 8 grams total sugars, 4 grams fiber, 6 grams total fat (1 gram saturated), no cholesterol, 29 milligrams sodium.
Credit: Meridith Ford for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Credit: Meridith Ford for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Fresh Corn Fritters
Fritters are a scrumptious way to eat your vegetables. I enjoy adding 1/2 cup chopped peppers or okra to this recipe when I have either on hand.
Leftover fritters are delicious warmed in the oven and topped with a poached egg for breakfast.
- 2 ears corn, shucked and silked
- 2 eggs
- 1/4 cup whole milk
- 2 tablespoons white cornmeal
- 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
- Corn or vegetable oil for frying (about 4 cups)
- Cut the kernels from the corn cobs, place in a small bowl and set aside. Reserve the corn cobs.
- In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk. Stir in the corn kernels. While holding the corn cobs over the large bowl, run the edge of a knife down the cobs to scrape any corn milk onto the corn mixture. Stir. Discard remaining cobs.
- In a medium bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, salt and baking powder.
- Fold the dry cornmeal mixture into the wet corn mixture and stir until a batter forms.
- Pour the oil into a large, heavy skillet to 1/2-inch depth. Place over high heat until the oil reaches 365 degrees. When the oil reaches temperature, lower the heat to medium-high. Drop a small amount of batter into the hot oil to test the temperature. If the batter doesn’t sizzle, wait until the oil is a little hotter, then keep the temperature as even as possible throughout frying.
- Working in batches, use a tablespoon to drop the batter into the oil, making 4 fritters at a time. Let them fry until they begin to turn golden around the edges, about 3 minutes. Flip each of the fritters to fry on the second side, and fry for an additional 3 minutes, or until golden brown.
- Remove the cooked fritters from the oil and drain on paper sacks or paper towels. Repeat with the remaining batter.
- Serve immediately, while fritters are still hot.
Makes 16 small fritters, 4 servings.
Per serving: 320 calories (percent of calories from fat, 65), 6 grams protein, 22 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams total sugars, 1 gram fiber, 24 grams total fat (4 grams saturated), 95 milligrams cholesterol, 425 milligrams sodium.
Credit: Meridith Ford for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Credit: Meridith Ford for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Sautéed Corn, Squash and Tomato Salad
This Oaxacan mixture, inspired by a recipe in the “Mexico: The Beautiful Cookbook” by Susanna Palazuelos and Marilyn Tausend (Collins Publishers San Francisco, 1991) showcases the three indigenous vegetables for which Mexico is most celebrated: corn, squash and tomatoes. Don’t overdo the sauté; this dish should be light and fresh. It pairs well with eggs, meat or fish.
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 clove garlic, chopped
- 1/4 onion, chopped
- 1 1/2 pounds zucchini, chopped (about 6 cups)
- Kernels from 2 ears shucked and silked corn
- 2 tomatoes, finely chopped
- 1 teaspoon cilantro, finely chopped
- 1 poblano, seeded and cut into strips
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 cup queso fresco
- In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and onion and sauté until translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the zucchini and corn kernels and sauté for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the tomatoes, increase the heat to high and cook until the mixture begins to bubble.
- Add the cilantro, poblano and salt. Stir to combine. Cook for 1 minute. Remove from the heat. Sprinkle with queso fresco. Serve immediately.
- Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to one week.
Serves 6.
Per serving: 137 calories (percent of calories from fat, 49), 5 grams protein, 14 grams carbohydrates, 7 grams total sugars, 3 grams fiber, 8 grams total fat (2 grams saturated), 7 milligrams cholesterol, 488 milligrams sodium.
Meridith Ford is a local chef and food writer who owns Cremalosa gelateria.
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