Omakase-style dining is a double-edged sword. The chef might choose the menu, but the customer pays the bill. And with high prices come high expectations.
NoriFish Sushi & Izakaya in Buckhead first opened as Prefecture, which claimed to have the city’s first wagyu omakase. Earlier this year, chef-owner Sean Park pivoted and transformed the space into a second location of NoriFish, his Sandy Springs sushi restaurant.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
NoriFish is stylish, with dark walls and light-colored tabletops that create a sense of theater on the table. The space feels open, even without windows. Though izakayas are typically more casual, like a Japanese tapas bar or gastropub, NoriFish feels distinctly upscale.
The restaurant offers two levels of omakase alongside its à la carte izakaya menu. The standard omakase is $115, while the premium omakase is $170. Since costs can creep up with the à la carte menu, which has many items priced between $30 and $40, the omakase options almost look like a bargain, depending on what you order to drink.
The servers dropped off both menus at the beginning of my first meal and suggested the omakase, but I appreciated that they didn’t put on the hard sell when we elected to order off the à la carte menu instead.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
Following our server’s suggestion, my table ordered a selection of nigiri and sushi rolls to share, followed by a few hot dishes.
The nigiri selection was lovely, each fish treated to a its own flavor combination, rather than being served with the same seasonings. The kinmedai, or golden eye snapper, stood out, thanks to an elegant combination of lime and yuzu. So did the chu toro, or medium-fatty tuna, which gained a pleasant smoky flavor and texture from a light charring. Its richness was offset by a tiny bit of tomato and dab of lemon aioli.
There was a small selection of sushi rolls, but they were constructed expertly, with a variety of flavors. The hotate aburi roll, which featured crab and scallop, was luxurious and subtle, highlighting the sweetness of the two shellfish. I appreciated that the spicy tuna roll actually had some heat — enough that diners with sensitive palates should be warned.
The spirit of Prefecture lives on with the izakaya menu, thanks to the presence of plenty of wagyu. The exceptionally rich beef is used in several different applications, ranging from tartare to sliders to the usual steak.
The wagyu tacos were the most fun, served in a crispy wonton shell with a pipette of sauce to squeeze on at the last second. The crunchy texture of the shell and acidic kimchi cucumbers highlighted the richness and tenderness that makes wagyu so desirable. With their enhanced flavor and fun factor, the tacos outshone the A5 wagyu spinalis, the more traditional steak preparation.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
On my second visit, my wife and I opted for the omakase. The chef’s choice menu is served at your table like a tasting menu, rather than at a chef’s counter where each piece is prepared in front of you. When I asked Park why he chose this style of service, he said he wanted a less rigid experience that would be easier to enjoy with the rest of the guests at your table.
Our experience, unfortunately, felt rushed. At a typical omakase, courses are served one at a time, which makes it easier to savor each one. At NoriFish, most of the courses included three items at the same time, and it felt like a new plate was set down as soon as our last was whisked away.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
Also, the polished service frayed as servers missed small details, such as adding blue cheese olives to a martini when regular olives were ordered, or forgetting to bring back a menu we requested, because we wanted to follow it along with our meal.
At the end of the night, a 20% tip was added to the bill, although an automatic gratuity had not been mentioned on the menu or by the servers. Our dinner was over in less than an hour and a half, but it cost $582 after tax and tip.
There’s merit to the idea of a less involved omakase service, where the focus of the meal is placed on your table, rather than the chef. But the experience is supposed to be luxurious, and diners should feel pampered afterward, not shooed away.
NORIFISH SUSHI & IZAKAYA
2 out of 4 stars (very good)
Food: modern Japanese
Service: typically polished, but sometimes rushed and lacking in attention to detail
Noise level: low
Recommended dishes: miso pork belly ssam, wagyu tacos, king salmon ceviche, spicy tuna roll, hotate aburi roll, chu toro quail egg toast, any nigiri
Vegetarian dishes: not recommended for vegetarians
Alcohol: full bar with solid sake options and interesting cocktails
Price range: $75-$200 per person, excluding drinks
Hours: 5-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays
Accessibility: fully ADA-compliant with ground level entry
Parking: free deck Tuesdays-Thursdays, $5 valet Fridays-Saturdays
Nearest MARTA station: none
Reservations: recommended, but not necessary
Outdoor dining: no
Takeout: no
Address, phone: 2277 Peachtree St. NE, Atlanta. 404-963-7865
Website: norifishsushi.com
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution’s dining critics conduct reviews anonymously. Reservations are not made in their name, nor do they provide restaurants with advance notice about their visits. Our critics always make multiple visits, sample the full range of the menu and pay for all of their meals. AJC dining critics wait at least one month after a new restaurant has opened before visiting.
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