New book to capture 100 years of dining at Atlanta’s Colonnade restaurant

Eldredge, a seasoned chronicler of the city’s stories, understands The Colonnade on a deeply personal level. He first discovered it in 1980, after his family moved from New Jersey to Gwinnett County.

“I had never even heard of a meat and three,” he told The Atlanta Journal-Constitution. But after trying what he called Atlanta’s “trifecta” of classics — The Varsity, Mary Mac’s and The Colonnade — Eldredge said the latter resonated because its food tasted like home cooking. As an adult, his craving for comfort fare has only grown, making an order of mixed fried chicken, collards and the famous Marian salad his go-to.

Credit: Ryan Fleisher

Credit: Ryan Fleisher

Eldredge has been gathering stories during “story sessions” held at the restaurant. “To each one of us it means something different,” he said. “We want to fill the pages with not only customers, but staff; some have worked at The Colonnade for half a century.”

The Colonnade first opened in 1927 in a white columned house on the corner of Piedmont Road and Lindbergh Drive, moving to its current location on Cheshire Bridge Road in 1962. Frank Tarleton sold it to Paul Jones in 1979. Jones’ daughter Jodi and her husband, David Stallings, sold it to partners and longtime regulars Paul Donahue and Lewis Jeffries last year.

In the corner of the bar on a recent Saturday session, the stories kicked off with a tale that will be included in the book. Buckhead resident Buster Carter, a Colonnade patron for 65 years, told of his parents eating once a week at the restaurant. “They felt at home here,” he said, noting that the staff is what makes it special. Tomato aspic was his late father’s favorite, and roast beef was his mother’s order. It was also her last meal. Before the ambulance arrived at the restaurant, Carter said it had been a good day. “She won at bridge that day, she was having dinner with dad and having her favorite meal.”

Eldredge can’t include all the stories in the book, but will decide what fits best. “There are so many wonderful stories,” he said. “To each one of us it means something different, and people are passionate.”

The book will also reveal the restaurant’s role as a haven, with one person sharing that for queer patrons during the peak of the AIDS crisis, it was a crucial “safe space.” This deep sense of hospitality is why the restaurant survived so many challenges, from the crash of 1929 to the COVID-19 pandemic, “the magic of this place,” Dr. Joseph Allen said in his interview with Eldredge.

The coffee table book, expected to be released in late 2026 ahead of the 2027 celebration, will be a full-color tome. Eldredge plans for it to be not only a historical account but also a collection of memories, cherished recipes, and a celebration of the bond between the staff and customers.

Credit: Olivia Bowdoin

Credit: Olivia Bowdoin

Eldredge noted that some employees have worked at The Colonnade for half a century. “The staff are so loyal it intersects with customer loyalty,” he said. Serving Atlanta for 100 years is rare in a city that, as Eldredge puts it, “has a knack for knocking things down.”

Of course, the food is at the heart of it all. The book will feature signature recipes, with a probable two-page spread dedicated to the famed tomato aspic.

“I think these stories add up to why The Colonnade is celebrating 100 years,” Eldredge said. “It’s not just fried chicken and peach cobbler.”

The book is a fitting tribute to a place where, for so many, a simple meal has always felt like coming home.

SHARE YOUR STORIES

To share memories of The Colonnade and stay informed about upcoming story sessions at the restaurant, visit the “Memories of Atlanta’s Colonnade” Facebook page.