4 comforting dishes to try this January

During a dinner at Damasco, I learned the Arabian word for cabbage rolls as well as how they deliciously differ from Eastern European versions. “Malfouf” begins with stuffing short-grain rice and beef into blanched cabbage leaves. The finely minced meat is perfumed with allspice, cumin, cinnamon and black pepper. I could taste dried mint between the layers, giving a cool balance to the savory meat morsels. The delicate batons are far slimmer than I expected and are so tightly packed that they could be finger food.

Submerged in a broth seasoned heavily with lemon juice and garlic, the humble cabbage transforms with bright, sharp Mediterranean flavors. As the rice cooks and expands, it absorbs all the juices and the tapestry of warming spices. The result is a dish that defies winter chill. It’s comfort food elevated, a perfect balance of savory fat and bracing acidity.

3099 Breckinridge Blvd., Duluth. 678-848-6097

Credit: Angela Hansberger

Credit: Angela Hansberger

North Georgia trout at Joey D’s Oak Room

To eat the North Georgia trout dish at Joey D’s Oak Room is to experience the power of restraint. There is no need for sauces, foams or even garnish. Instead, the focus is on the trout’s own quiet virtues — the pristine, flaky white flesh and the skin seared to a delicate crackle.

It is grilled simply, so its natural oils baste the fish from the inside out. The skin releases a toasted nuttiness that complements the faint sweetness of the tender flesh, which breaks into small, moist flakes. Along with the smoky char, it tastes clean, like wet stones after a rain. The parchment-like crisp skin is the best part. A squeeze of grilled lemon adds acidity, cutting any richness and emphasizing the incredibly fresh flavor. A heap of simply dressed peppery arugula is a perfect match to the hot, bright and savory fish.

1015 Crown Pointe Parkway, Dunwoody. 770-512-7063, joeydsoakroom.com

Roast chicken at Elise

In spite of the formidable menu filled with seafood, steaks and chef Craig Richards’ handmade pasta, I went for the rustic comfort and quiet magic of a roast chicken on a recent blustering evening. In the modern surroundings of the luxe dining room, the cacophony of sounds disappeared as I cut into the crisp, caramelized skin. A faint earthy perfume from black truffle butter wafted through the air. The first bite was immediately remarkable and deeply flavored. Because it was roasted with precision, the meat was saturated with its own rendered juices, yielding a silken, almost buttery bite within the bronzed skin.

Tangy-sweet cider-roasted shallot slivers crown the bird, which rests in a luxurious Marsala green peppercorn sauce. I used the roasted lacinato kale to scoop up every bit. I appreciated the plate as I would any of the paintings in the High Museum next door.

1280 Peachtree St. NE, Atlanta. 404-540-7572, elise-atl.com

Credit: Angela Hansberger

Credit: Angela Hansberger

Bar Pie at Brainwave Pizza

This pizza is special. When asked, as I often do, the pizzaioli will explain the science of the three-day fermentation and curing process. (This is why, when they run out of the pies, they can’t just whip one up.) The soul of this pizza lies in a wild yeast starter (named Chipper Jones) that has been nurtured for years. The 72-hour process allows the dough to develop depth, structure and flavor in the cracker-thin crust. Local flour gives a nutty, less refined taste.

Once it hits the hot pizza ovens, you get a hot, 14-inch tavern-style round with a crisp chew and malty tang to the airy crust. The edges are adorned with charred bubbles, adding a hint of smoke. The charred cups of pepperoni and flecks of cheese are enchanting, but I’m drawn to the dough. The long fermentation isn’t merely a flavor intensifier; it breaks down gluten and starches, creating a crust both light on the palate and easy on the tummy. It’s a crushable pizza that pairs perfectly with a glass of Cold Slice from the attached Inner Voice Brewing.

308 W. Ponce de Leon Ave., Decatur. brainwavepizza.com.